Rust...

[dieselnomad]

Hi,

Didn't know where to really post this, but figured this was the best place.

So, on my '98 I've started to get some "rust bubbles" on the inside/downside of the wheel wells. I had some tow lights that were on the rear bumper come completely corroded off. My doors are good, and all other panes are fine. What is the best thing to do with these bubbles and can I prevent the cancer from spreading? Over the winter I just sprayed wd40 and put grease on the bare spots... while it's warm out, I want to repair a bit better... And, no the truck isn't a heap, it's pretty nice, I'm talking about penny sized bubbles... :smilielol:

tia for any ideas or suggestions.

and, i really am liking NETDP.com!

[Jim]

Lovely New england winters at work again:nutkick: I have something similar in my driver side rear wheelwell. Luckily its at the very top and heres what im planning on doing. Take out fender liner, sand down inside and outside lip, and then Por-15 both sides to prevent further moisture intrusion. I have black por-15 left over from doing the inside of my doors (more on that in a moment) but it dosent really matter what color it is because it will never be seen. Depending where your rust resides, maybe hit it with Por-15 or something simmilar and then hit it with some touch up paint, or bring it to a body shop if its gonna be real noticeable.
As far as the wonderful Dodge door design, I started to get some blistering on the bottom lip by the pinch weld. I think this problem starts because of the overall lousy design they used with the pinch weld on the bottom. also, on the inside of the door where the inner and outer skins meet water likes to collect in there also, and the weep holes get blocked, causing rust also. I took off the door panels and blew out oll the crap that was in the door (pine needles road dirt etc) sanded it down and painted the bottom of the inside, also did the same (sand, paint) on the pinch weld on the outside and the rust has not advanced any since this was taken care of.
in a nutshell you wanna get both sides of the skin thats rusted so the moisture dosent seep in and bubble off the paint you just put on.
good luck.:beerchug:

[Warpig]

If the rust is just surface, you can sand off the rust, tape it off, prime the spot, then use touch up paint (you can get from dealer). Then to blend it in, wet sand the spot with 800, 1200, 1600 grit. After that, use a compound to smooth out the sanding and blend it in nice. Finish it off with a nice wax and you're all done. If the rust is too deep :dunno: maybe time for a little body shop work.

Tim

[dieselnomad]

Many thanks, man. I haven't been treating both sides to date, I think that's an important step.

What is por-15 and where can I get it?

I did the same thing on my doors and now habitually soak and spray wd40 in the weep holes towards the end of summer, late fall and then once in winter. Yeah, I might be a joker but I have solid doors so far so I'm happy. I hoping that emissions testing catches up w/ me before the rust takes me over...

hm... interesting thought/conversation there..

Anyway, as always, thanks Jim.

[dieselnomad]

If the rust is just surface, you can sand off the rust, tape it off, prime the spot, then use touch up paint (you can get from dealer). Then to blend it in, wet sand the spot with 800, 1200, 1600 grit. After that, use a compound to smooth out the sanding and blend it in nice. Finish it off with a nice wax and you're all done. If the rust is too deep :dunno: maybe time for a little body shop work.

Tim

Thanks, warpig, I responded while you were writing in too...


Let me ask you guys another question while I have your attention(s). I have the stock mudflaps (lame) that say (4x4)... they, the screws, are rusting outta their holes. what do you think I can do about that? I was thinking about newer longer flaps and reinforcing the holes and providing a nut on the back side of the screws...

I find that the screws on the passenger side come really loose the most.. gee, wonder why with the 4" w/ 5" tip being there... :smilielol:

Thanks for the input guys

[Jim]

http://www.por15.com/

There are other brands like chassis saver also. Por takes a few steps, but when done right holds up well. there super starter kit is what I used an still have plenty left over.
http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1404/.f

WD 40 and the like is no joke. Ive read of some rust belt states that used to have service stations that would coat the underside of your car/truck with diesel fuel and a waxy substance to fend off rust for the winter.

[Jim]

Thanks, warpig, I responded while you were writing in too...


Let me ask you guys another question while I have your attention(s). I have the stock mudflaps (lame) that say (4x4)... they, the screws, are rusting outta their holes. what do you think I can do about that? I was thinking about newer longer flaps and reinforcing the holes and providing a nut on the back side of the screws...

I find that the screws on the passenger side come really loose the most.. gee, wonder why with the 4" w/ 5" tip being there... :smilielol:

Thanks for the input guys

when you replace them, use 100% silicone sealant on both sides of the hole then bolt together. that way its tight to the weather. working very well for me so far.

[dieselnomad]

Cool! thanks for all the input. I'll check it out. This'll be stuff I work on in the hottest months since I'll be able to do it outdoors....... wait, that's where I do everything ... :smilielol:
Seriously, if i budget 4 wheel wells between June and September, I should get it taken care of... (time is a problem for me, with care of / for my kids :D)

[Warpig]

When I had mudflaps I used windshield seal on both sides. It's the stuff that the windshield lays against (black tar, sticky) and seals the windshield. The stuff never dries out, and will stay pliable, sealing out all moisture.

[kawi600]

If youve got bubbles its gone through the metal from the back, its toast. Id get a cutoff wheel and cut out the rusted bits and weld in some new sheet metal and do it that way. I did my fender arch, door lowers and the rocker panels. I need a cab corner now though, so Ill be looking for a pre-made patch panel. My fenders are toast, Im just saving up $$$ to replace them.
Spray some POR-15 metal ready up inside the fenders via the turn signal openings and the bed stake openings. Keeps the rust down

[sooter]

WD 40 and the like is no joke. Ive read of some rust belt states that used to have service stations that would coat the underside of your car/truck with diesel fuel and a waxy substance to fend off rust for the winter.


a mix of used diesel oil and k1 mixed together works too.

[Smokin']

Back when I had my Dodge, the paint was getting beat off from the lower part of my bed just behind the wheels. I never had mud flaps on it because I didn't want to drill holes that may cause rust....:idea: What I ended up doing was sand blasting the rusted areas with baking soda until they were free of rust, primed them, and then brought my truck to the local Line-X dealer and had the entire lower portion (about 1' up) of the truck sprayed. I had a black truck, and went with the black Line-X. It came out looking great! I just wish that I had some pictures that I could show you! -Anyway, spray on bed liners are available in a ton of colors now, so that may be another option for you to look at. It's funny that you guys mentioned that you spray your doors with WD-40. I have used motorcycle chain lube on all of my rigs and never had any problems, the good thing about that is that it turns into a waxy grease after it sets up, and I think that it lasts a lot longer. Good luck with it! -Craig:coorslight:

[killed300ex]

if anyone is looking I have a decent set of dodge fenders for sale that came off a 96 dodge 2500 that i got totaled. They are in good condition let me know if anyone is interested I do have pictures. There is a little surface rust on the inside lip but other than that they are in good condition.
Evan

[PRattenbury]

I can look around down here in the sun belt for rust-free body parts, too. Problem then becomes getting them into the rust belt. Ah, it's only a 20 hour ride. :nutkick: